Day Six: Wednesday, July 25

Despite the wonder of Yellowstone, we are glad to be leaving the crowds. What is surprising is how many people are here, and how many of them are foreign. Non-Americans have tremendous appreciation and respect for our national parks. And even with the crowds and the Myrtle Beach-style buzz, there are reminders that you are not in an urban area. For example, they don't have trash cans. They have bear boxes (they are bear proof).

We left West Yellowstone at 54 degrees, it was 95 degrees when we checked into our new hotel. We felt like thespians with all the clothes changes.

Our initial leg took us over the Targhee Pass into Caribou-Targhee National Forest on the Nez Perce scenic route. The Nez Perce are a local Indian tribe.

We soon departed the Nez Perce route, and went through ranch county. There was nothing but cattle and ranches. And I mean nothing. There were mountains to our right and to our left. There were a lot of "no trespassing" signs, and I think they meant it.

Soon, we began following the Madison River into Ennis, Montana. This roughly followed the Lewis and Clark trail on their way back from their expedition. We saw a number of fly fisherman, and didn’t know that this is one of the best-known fly fishing areas in the country. We were surprised to see how big fly fishing was in Ennis: resorts, guides, charters, retail - you name it.

Note the huge fly fishing lure. Larry is after a big fish.

Leaving Ennis, we traveled more ranch country through small towns. Larry and Randal stopped in Jackson, Montana and met everyone in town: all nine of them. The lady in the post office hadn't spoken to anyone in a while, and wouldn't let Randal go. Trying to pry Randal from that conversation took all of Larry's power and ability.

By the way, a room at the hotel was $39/night. And no one knew why they have a post office in a town of nine people.

We continued on, stopping in Wisdom, Montana. That was an experience. Going east from Wisdom, there was nothing for miles. We headed west to our next overnight.

Wisdom, Montana is desolate.

Above is a photo of a UPS truck. They don't use the standard UPS trucks we typically see. UPS has heavy duty, military style vehicles in Montana and Idaho.

Yes, we tanked up. Our bikes don't carry much fuel, and don't get good mileage meaning that we have limited range: ~200 miles. You don't want to have half a tank to get you though 50 miles and run into traffic, a detour or have to return from whence you came.

This is essentially the town of Wisdom: a restaurant, two bars, a gas station and a small grocery.

Note the houses: chinked timber with a dirt roof. Wisdom was named by the Lewis and Clark expedition, and is in the Big Hole Valley. You can't make this up.

Going west, we followed the Lewis and Clark trail over the Chief Joseph pass as we worked our way up to Lolo.

We saw a number of road bicyclists today – loaded down with gear such that it was clear they were packing for a long trip. Not only were there a lot of them, but many were old and many were alone.

We continued on to Lolo, traveling alongside a river.

We have learned a great deal about Montana and Wyoming: they love America, they love Trump, they love guns, they don’t buy many foreign cars and no German cars, they like large Harleys – touring bikes and trikes, and often have their significant other on the back. And they really like pick-up trucks and RVs. They drive in traffic like they are from Mars, and are very nice, engaging people. We are trying to imagine what it is like to live in the ranch region. It is just so desolate.

Today we traveled 336 miles, for a trip total (for me) of 2162.

Tomorrow is the Lolo Pass into Idaho, traveling along the Washington State border to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho.